I have serched evey thing to get these going onto page 15 on pbnation in serch of these many are other ppl and i give them props i have just thrown them all togeather for ease of use. man that was like 2 hours of work lol hop it helps ppl cuz it helped my egg
Halo-
1. Open your hopper, keeping all parts to the left shell. You will need to take the chip out, so it might be easier to unplug the two sets of wires. Remove the board and switch cover simutainiously or the switch will break. If the board aint budging, while the left shell is on it side, push the board down (to the boards left it it was all vertical right now which it shouldn't be). Whe it slides to the outside of the shell, it should come out with the board cover simutainiously.
2. Take out the board of your Halo, find points C8 and VR1 (see picture). Take a thin wire and run it thru the holes at the points so they connect. The hole is to the left of the letters, not right above them. Fold the wire back behind the board, but don't let it touch any other holes. Solder if you test it and you like it.
3. Put the board and cover back in, and then plug wires back in and put the hopper back together.
4. Done, try it out.
5. Solder it if you like it, take it out if you don't. 
2.First buy a motor i got mine off ebay for 5 bucks(hyper dash 2 by tamiya).
Second go to radio shack and buy a capaciter ( write the # down off of the capacitor and take it with you).
Last go to a hobby store and buy the gear.
Tap the gear onto the new motor (make sure to tap, it takes a lot of taping DO NOT HIT THE GEAR YOU WILL BEND THE MOTOR SHAFT)
Last solder your capaciter and wires on .
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3...e/turbomod1.bmp http://homepage.mac.com/pleisey/.Movies/22.AVI to lazy to do this u say well heres how or u can buy it from this site
http://pbloner.net/page4.html
3.I don't know what the safe limit on the Halo is, but over-volting it a bit could make any board in it faster. Stock, the 6 AAs is 9V, 6 rechargeables is 7.2V (though i doubt many use these). The 9V mod uses 2 9V in parallel 9V with 2 times the life. Using a 9.6V rechageable would be a very safe way to boost the speed, granted very little. I use my 9.6V (Powerex 9.6V NiMH 170 mAH) everywhere.
Revy-
1.put an r/c car motor in , get them at a hobby shop, bring in the revvy motor, and say, what do you got thats faster, and they hooked you up, its like 2 times faster, shoots ropes why do you think you see some pros still using revvys.
2.from the testing I did the consistancy and bps sorta imporved!
BPS by 1-2 (14bps-15bps) could have been better with new batteries
Consistancy was not off by much'
the red is added material
http://www.geocities.com/armored_ddr/reloader.jpg
the red is added material
Test 1-
85 balls
6 seconds
14.2 BPS
Test 2-
85 balls
6.5 seconds
13.1 BPS
Test 3-
85 Balls
6 seconds
14.2 BPS
Note: I ran tests with Rec Series ZAP Paint, used Batteries (results could have been better with new batteries), Empire Reloader 2 (Revy),
Egg mods o boy-
1.Egg Paddle Mod BPS increase -- ~1.5-2
Cut off all your paddles but two and keep them in a straight line. Reinforce them with something long and thing like a Popsicle stick or sewing needle.
2.Z board BPS increase -- ~3
Buy and install VL's Z board upgrade.
3.Gear Shave Mod BPS increase -- ~1-3 (depending on how well your egg was made)
How to do it is pretty simple. Well I'll give you guys the simple text only description now and later hopefully one with pretty pictures. Ok?
To begin with I had noticed my EVOII hopper was somewhat slower than the one a friend of mine had (Hi Ecco! You gave me the idea to do it), even using the same batteries, same board, same paint and everything. My hopper was also sounding louder than his. This got me thinking that there had to be some kind of resistance in the motor unit, perhaps the tolerances of the fit of the plastic gears inside?
What I did was I removed the motor unit from the eggo and opened it with a small electronics screwdriver.
I checked the fit of the gears and found them being slightly too tight a fit. I removed the center one and very carefully filed the outer teeth of the gear down a tiny tiny bit. Then I used a hobby knife to remove shavings and to scrape the bottoms between the teeth slightly. Then I checked the other gears, but they fit very well together. I cleaned all the gears from any plastic residue from the work on the middle gear. I also removed the grease internally, though only because I thought it might have little plastic shavings in it, and lubed the gears up with what I had at hand -PMI paintball gun oil. Any paintball gun oil would do nicely I think.
Finally I re-assembled the motor and then the hopper.
And that's about it. Doesn't sound too complicated does it?
Just be sure to note the placement of the gears, well they only fit one way but it helps a lot if you remember how they are supposed to be placed anyway before taking them apart.
Be careful, be gentle and even with the filing down of the gear and generous with the oil.
4.Also, the 9.6v batteries I use probably give about an extra 1 bps faster feed rate. So with normal batteries perhaps you'll get "only" 22-24 bps?
This is much easier to do if you photo each step of the way. Like, take it apart and photograph how the gears fit together.
5.Servo Mod BPS increase -- depends on the servo (have gotten eggs up to 25 bps in drop tests and have them perform flawlessly on the field)
Buy the servo of a nitro RC car, plane, helicopter, etc., and install it in place of the stock servo. [url="http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXJYT8&P=7"]
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P FIXED
For anyone who is going to attempt to do the servo mod, there are a few things you should know so you don't waste your money on something that is way above what is needed. First off you don't need a nitro R/C servo, you just need a servo for any type of remote control plane, car, or helicoptor. If you actually were to pick one out specially designed for nitro cars(gas powered) they are meant to run off a 6 volt reciever pack that powers the servos and the reciever. There are some specially made for electric cars that run on 7.2 volts, they just run straight off the battery pack for the entire car. You might have better luck with one of these servos because they are made for higher voltage. When you pick out your servo bring in the one off of your egg because all the different brands that make remotes and recievers have different connections on the servos. It'll be easier to just buy one with the same connector then have to swap them. Pick out one that has plastic gears, high speed, and not to much torque. There are some that have metal gears, high speed, and tons of torque. If you put those in your loader it would not only be over kill and a waste of money, but the high torque would probably break paint and make your new "modded" egg a worthless blender. Most hobby shops are pretty picky about allowing returns of servos as well because they take a beating in some R/C applications. So good luck to you all if you attempt to do this, I havn't and don't even own an egg anymore. Just thought I'd add some helpful tips for you guys.
6.Pure Energy's Mod BPS increase -- ~1-2
What you need:
- Egg 2
- revy impeller
- drimmel preferably
- some type of sheers
- screw driver
Process :
1.) take apart the egg down to the motor.
2.) unscrew the Tiny screw that holds the impeller onto the motor. Its accessable from the top.
3.) Prepare your revy impeller-- put the revy impeller onto the motor in place of the old egg impeller (note its a hex shaped nob it fits on.) you will then see that the propeller has 2 problems. 1 the fins drag on the tray of the egg and 2... It sits a litle too high causeing balls to get up under and potentially jam. Here is where I did my magic. Take the impeller back off. The white hex knob on the motor needs to be shaved down some so the impeller sits lower in the cone. To do this, take your drimmel or other tool and shave it down in incriments just af raction of an inch..maybe 1/8th. Dont shave it too far that the threads in the knob are gone. Now take your sheers and simple clip off the propeller blades so they clear the inside cone by about an 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. This will cure the problem of balls going under the propeller and the dragging of the blades. (You may choose to file down the cut blades for less chance of a blender, I had no problem of such ) and make sure you dont drimmel down too far that its past the hex shapped fitting.
4.) Re-assemble egg including the screw holding the impeller to the motor.
Why would anyone choose an egg as their hopper of choice? many reasons. It holds more paint, is lighter than a halo when both are empty, no blasphemous drive cone breaks, overall less touchy, can be made to be just as fast, and is easier to personalize with modifications.
